A sapphire's cut is about more than its outline. Two oval sapphires of the same weight can look very different because of their proportions and the way they return light.
For the complete buying framework, read our guide to choosing a natural sapphire.
A good cut balances colour, brightness, retained weight, symmetry and overall appearance. There is no single set of proportions that suits every sapphire and every rough crystal.
Understand the main parts of the cut
The table
The table is the large facet at the top. It provides a view into the stone. A large table combined with unsuitable proportions can contribute to a flat appearance, but table size should not be judged in isolation.
The crown
The crown lies between the table and the girdle, the edge around the stone. A very low crown may make the sapphire look flat. Balanced crown proportions help its lively appearance as the stone moves.
The pavilion
The pavilion is the lower part, below the girdle. Its facet angles play a key role in returning light.
If the relevant angles are too shallow, a face-up window may appear. An unnecessarily deep pavilion can retain weight without providing a proportionate face-up size.
The best compromise depends on shape, the optical properties of corundum, colour zoning and the available rough material.
Look at extinction and contrast
Some facets look dark from a particular viewing angle. A degree of contrast is normal in a faceted gemstone and helps create a lively pattern as it moves.
Large areas that remain very dark under several viewing angles and lighting conditions can make a sapphire appear closed or lifeless. Distinguish persistent darkness from reflections caused by the camera, your head or the surroundings.
Check symmetry and polish
An oval, cushion, pear or round outline should appear balanced. Look at the alignment of the shape and whether its facets seem reasonably regular.
Surface scratches or poor polishing can also affect the appearance. These should be judged with the rest of the stone, without expecting every coloured gemstone to follow diamond-cutting conventions.
Judge the actual brilliance
The final test is visual: as the sapphire moves, does it return light in an appealing way?
A good cut cannot turn weak-coloured rough into exceptional material, but it can bring out the sapphire's potential. A poor cut can diminish even attractive rough.
A practical comparison before buying
Do not judge a sapphire only by carat weight. Compare its millimetre dimensions, depth, face-up size, outline and return of light.
View it in diffuse daylight and ordinary indoor light. Ask for a face-up photograph and a video with gentle movement. Check for a central window and persistent dark areas, then consider the compromise together with colour, clarity and price.
Related guides
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